james finnigan
1 posts
Joined: 08/08/2008 08:53:10
Location: colchester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Roller Idler Bearing Fitting -Transfer/Drop Gears - Help!!
Hi, I am in the process of fitting Straight Cut Tranfer/Drop gears to my 1275 S. My gearbox is a remote pre A+, which means the idler hole in the gearbox and casing is smaller than later boxes. The idler gear holes have a needle idler bearings fitted in them and then the idler gear slots into these bearings. However!!!!, the SC idler has central roller bearings and the end shafts are the same dimensions as the the holes in the case and box. As such you do away with the needle bearings and the slot the idler gear directly in the hole. Here is where my problem is; Attempting to slot the gear into the gearbox casing it is as tight as hell, infact I would be suprised if it fits. I would be affraid of splitting the casing or Gearbox housing if forced in. Is it standard accepted practise to have to polish out the holes slightly to allow fitment???. I am 100% confident that the idler roller bearing is the correct part. I have also tried the idler roller bearing in 2 other casings and its just as impossible. So I am not adverse to lubricating it and taping it in with a rubber hammer or polishing the hole slightly larger, BUT WHICH IS IT ?? lol If you dont now the answer but may know a man/women that has fitted a roller idler bearing gear (PreA+Remote), please make contact.
Hi,
I am in the process of fitting Straight Cut Tranfer/Drop gears to my 1275 S.
My gearbox is a remote pre A+, which means the idler hole in the gearbox and casing is smaller than later boxes.
The idler gear holes have a needle idler bearings fitted in them and then the idler gear slots into these bearings.
However!!!!, the SC idler has central roller bearings and the end shafts are the same dimensions as the the holes in the case and box. As such you do away with the needle bearings and the slot the idler gear directly in the hole.
Here is where my problem is;
Attempting to slot the gear into the gearbox casing it is as tight as hell, infact I would be suprised if it fits. I would be affraid of splitting the casing or Gearbox housing if forced in.
Is it standard accepted practise to have to polish out the holes slightly to allow fitment???.
I am 100% confident that the idler roller bearing is the correct part. I have also tried the idler roller bearing in 2 other casings and its just as impossible.
So I am not adverse to lubricating it and taping it in with a rubber hammer or polishing the hole slightly larger, BUT WHICH IS IT ?? lol
If you dont now the answer but may know a man/women that has fitted a roller idler bearing gear (PreA+Remote), please make contact.
Posted: Jan 23, 2010 06:59 PM
Woody
73 posts
Joined: 29/01/2008 18:58:20
Location: NORWICH United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Making an alarming noise
If the noise is that loud it could just be the idler gears????
Posted: Oct 08, 2008 10:37 PM
Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Pre A-Plus Drop Gear Housing onto A Plus Block
Hi i am currently building an A Plus engine but the Drop Gear housing is damaged beyond use but i do have a very good Pre A Plus drop gear housing now i know that this pre A Plus housing has a much smaller idler gear bearing than the A Plus 3/4" diameter pin on the A Plus idler Gear but i was wondering is it possible to get the Pre A Plus housing machined to take the A Plus idler bearing or get the A Plus idler pin machined to fit the Pre A Plus Bearing or am i going to have to scrap the idea and shell out for a New casing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Posted: May 04, 2009 03:43 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
oil leak please help me in my mayfair 1992
I believe the primary gears, idler gears and gearbox bearings can also make an unpleasant noise when worn too?
Posted: Sep 07, 2007 01:45 PM
patmaher
11 posts
Joined: 05/08/2005 17:17:54
Location: london United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Idler Problems ?
How would u know if an idler is going? I suspect this is the case. ive got a 92 cooper engine and gearbox to preplace a 79 998cc the 1275 is very noisy when moving, sounds like reverse. and makes a draging sound when not moving, unless the clutch is down. as i understand it. if i want to use the 988 gear box, i have to change the primary gear, and probaly the idler too. so, really i would like to know if it`s the gearbox thats making the noise, or the drive? Please help.
Posted: Jan 20, 2006 10:43 PM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Noisy gearbox at 3,000rpm
It could be various problems. The gact it goes away when you put your foot on the clutch doesnt help a whole lot because you are not only slowing the rotational speed of the parts down, but removing the load as well. It could be the idler gear bearings, maybe badly/incorrectly shimmed idler gear, worn out mainshaft double roller bearing, badly/incorrectly shimmed diff bearings.... Is it noiser in any particular gear on your way up throug hthe box? As has been stated - the standard box is pretty strong when properly built. KC.
Posted: Feb 06, 2006 10:08 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
fouling plugs
well im not sure if the oil really affects the sycro bulk rings that much. There basicly tiny cluches that run in oil. so for them to work they need friction if the oil stopped that then they would not work. so to get the friction i think they are spring loaded. if the oil is thick there will be less friction so it will take longer to speed up the gear to work. if the oil is thin the friction will be greater so the syncro will work quicker. so overall i think they balence out in wear, thicker oil prob has the advantage tho but not by alot. thats my opinion tho have no reserch to back it up. id use 20w50 if u have done over 60,000 miles but dont think 15w40 wouldnt do much harm, i use 15w40 in my engine of 77k as most 20w50 oil in the shops is really cheap and i dont trust it i use castrol gtx for higher milage engines as i think it shud be made to a high standard and have good addatives. the oil thinkness is mostly for main bearings and bores, i dont know about the idler gear tho gess ul have to look and cheak to be sure, the idler gears are expensive so u usually just replace the bearing they run in and there are seval sizes, u have to cheak ur gearbox casting number to cheak which.
Posted: Jan 13, 2007 12:10 AM
chrispy61
51 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 22:27:39
Location: Torquay United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
drop gears
im rebuilding my gearbox and im at the stage of fitting the gear that fits on the 1st motion shaft, i want to replace it with a stright cut teeth item but do not want to buy the idler and primary gears yet. what shud i buy coz there is diffrent amout of teeth and do not want to get it wrong! its for normal road car so dont want to change ratio for quicker acceleration or anything. cheers
Posted: Feb 12, 2007 09:38 PM
Joel Hoffman
2 posts
Joined: 20/03/2009 02:48:11
Location: Fuquay Varina United States
Flywheel Housing Installation Problem
Last Fall, I did a thorough overhaul on a Metro engine that was previously installed in an early Mini. The engine was supposedly rebuilt about 5000 miles ago by an experienced Mini shop in the USA (where I am located). It had blown a head gasket, and I purchased it in this condition. Whoever assembled it the last time made some "errors", so I question how much experience the shop actually had. The oil thrower was installed the wrong way, causing it to rub on the double row timing chain, there was a scratch around a rod bearing shell indicating dirt when assembled, a piston had a small piece missing from the skirt. You get the idea. The engine now has been assembled properly with a replacement flowed head, new bearings, Kent 286 camshaft properly degreed in, 73.5mm pistons with 9cc dish, the compression ratio carefully measured out and set at 10.5:1, and a lot of other things ----- all put together in a clean environment. The project has been idling (pun intended) for a few months and it's time to get it moving again. I just assembled the transmission to the engine, and installed the drop gears. I did no work to the transmission as it seems good and was overhauled recently. When installing the flywheel housing, the primary gear can be easily rotated until I firm up the last two bottom bolts inside the housing. Then, it takes much more force to rotate the primary gear. If I loosen up either of the two bottom bolts, it rotates freely again. Ok, so something is binding. I've taken the housing off a couple of times trying to figure out what is causing the problem with nothing obvious seen. I can still rotate the primary gear with the two bottom bolts tight, but it takes a lot of effort. The primary gear end clearance is correct, and nothing was changed with this assembly, The thrust washers on each side of the idler gear are the same ones that were in the engine when I disassembled it, but may have been changed from one side to the other when the motor was apart. I also cannot tell if the idler gear was turned over side for side from how it was assembled originally. The bearing at the end of the first motion shaft bearing was not removed. I'd appreciate any insight into what the problem might be. Thanks!!!!!
Posted: Apr 25, 2010 07:50 PM
simond
28 posts
Joined: 15/02/2005 08:21:17
Location: Leeds United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine troubleshooting
I'm having similar trouble with my 1275 cooper, it did run ok until the the idler gear killed itself so its all been stripped down. now i'm having the same issues.
Posted: Apr 30, 2009 05:09 PM
rodney snook
4 posts
Joined: 12/10/2010 22:04:05
Location: Redruth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Matching an A+ gearbox to a a Pre A+ engine.
I have a 1275cc Engine (from a Gt) casting 22G1832 which has a stepped crankshaft and primary gear. I want to match this to an A+ gearbox (Idler) casting DAM5626.
I understand that I need a primary drive gear which is stepped that fits the idler gear on the gearbox.
Of the many primary gears for sale, which one do I need?
Posted: Oct 07, 2016 01:10 PM
Matching an A+ gearbox to a Pre A+ engine.
Posted: Oct 07, 2016 01:11 PM
Posted: Oct 07, 2016 01:13 PM
gearbox noise
Hi all, does anyone know y my mini sounds like its in reverse in all gears. i have a 1979 998cc mini, got a 1992 coper engine and gearbox and fitted it. it goes really well. apart from this noise. it makes a dragging noise when not in gear, but the noise goes if i press the clutch. the 988 was over heating, which turns out to be a water pump that has no fins at all!!!. one of the bolts snaped (i knew it would) and the wear is really bad on the rear cylinder. so ive give up on that engine for now. i dont know now if i should try to sort the problem, or use the 988 gearbox that i know is good. i understand ill have to change the primary gear, maybe the idler, and get a bearing cause the new engine is a+ (i think, 1992????). could it be that the problem is the primary gear, or idler??? please help. any input on this would be of help, cause i really dont know, and am thinking maybe it`s easier to get another engine and box???? thanks for reading. Pat
Posted: Jan 15, 2006 10:45 PM
diddi
37 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 09:03:12
Location: St. Ingbert Germany
noisy gears
The noise that you describe and also the dragging noise that disappears when depressing the clutch pedal is the definite indication for the transfer gears i.e. idler gear bearings failure. Please don´t drive the car anymore before this is repaired. If you are very lucky, and i doubt you are, its only the idler gear bearings. But, if it´s already that noisy, usually the transfer gear housing and maybe also the gearbox itself are already damaged and you may also nead a complete transfer gear set. Both can be repaired by a competent machine shop but, it would be easier/cheaper to get a 2nd hand gearbox plus transfer gear housing or maybe even a complete engine/gearbox unit. To check the extent of the damage, it´s an engine-out-job and the clutch and transfer gear housing must be removed. Sorry for these bad news but this is a common problem with minis. Cheers, Diddi
Posted: Jan 27, 2006 04:22 PM
I always used Unipart 10W/40 oil (in the red can) in my 1990 Mini Cooper Mainstream up until it did around 50-60,000 miles and then switched to using Castrol GTX 15W/40.
Okay the synchromesh on second gear was always a little touchy but to cut a long story short a few years back my gearbox got damaged by a so called insurance recommended body shop repairers after I went out of my way to take it back and complain due to rust appearing on panels they'd fitted a mere few months earlier.
Well they wouldn't admit blame and after complaining to the insurance omsbudsmen and the citizens advice bureau etc, etc it was simply our word against theirs!
Right so after getting over that we finally payed out of our own pockets to have our gearbox repaired/rebuilt by a local clutch/gearbox specialist and they sorted the idler gear and fitted new baulk rings etc too.
So even though my Mini has virtually gone around the clock, my gearbox (synchros at least?) are still relatively new, so what oil is best for me to use, Duckhams Q Classic 20W/50 or 15W/40?
Oh and even though we had a new clutch fitted, I used to use our Mini for work and tended to put my foot down a bit so after some time I now get a judder when pulling off and I think the idler gear is starting to rattle again.
So what can I do?
Posted: Jan 12, 2007 05:25 PM
Wanted...
Hi all,1. if anyones got a complete gearbox they want to sell, doesn't matter if it crunches as i can mend that as long as it is complete.(later type rod change)2. if no gearbox, i need to find a diff casing / the 2 plates that house the driveshaft seals that bolt to the side of the gearbox3. i also need the casing that holds the idler bearings/gears (also housing the starter motor)ThanksDan Can collect from Norfolk area
Posted: May 02, 2011 02:23 PM
TENJIN
Joined: 07/10/2004 13:57:59
Location: Swindon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear box rattle at idle
After doing a 100 mile trip my 1991 Cooper carb 1293 has started making a new rattle noise when stationary and idling.
When I push the clutch to the floor the noise disappears.
BTW, the engine was rebuilt 1000 miles ago, but the box was left unchanged. Rebuild of engine included a rebore to 1293, new pistons, replacement head, new clutch. Everything else is standard. The engine and box had done 55K before the engine rebuild.
Any ideas? I've been told that the idler gear / bearing may have become worn, and I have been advised not to drive the car until it has been replaced.
I am reasonably capable with mechanical work, although I have never rebuilt a gearbox before. How difficult is it to replace the idler gear and bearings?
Cheers
D.
Posted: Jun 22, 2006 03:11 PM